Harrison L5 Lathe Manual Chuck

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Manual Lathe Chuck Mount Styles
Manual Lathe Chuck
Harrison L5 Lathe Manual Chucky

800-575-2843 Lathe accessory page, we have tools, posts, spindles, Automatic Bi-Directional Indexing Disc, Turrets, CSC, Duplo Driven, PBA chucks, Dual Arm toolchangers, 5C collets.

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Stainless
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Harrison L5A 11'x 24' 1 1/4' bore .. Need Some Guidance
Hello all,
I'm not quite sure if this is the right forum for this lathe.. I have a friend who is interested in selling the above-mentioned lathe to me. According to him, it originally came from the Canadian Government, then ended up at a local scrap yard and he ended up buying it from them. The original specs sheet is still with the lathe, dated December 1st. 1961. At the present, both the leadscrew and feedscrews are missing. My friend bought it that way back in 1993 with the good intentions of fixing it up. He replaced some worn bushings in the apron, which leads me to believe that this lathe was in the midst of having these repairs done at the time that it was scrapped.. hence the missing screws. He has a replacement leadscrew that he bought out of California way back then, but isn't entirely certain if its the correct pitch ( because of the passage of time and memory). He does have an aquaintence who has the identical machine which is up and running, so we may be able to verify the pitch that way. Also, the end block which would hold both screws is also missing. I believe that it wouldn't be very difficult to make one. Now, here's the worst of it.. at least to me it is.. because he didn't have 3 phase power and didn't want to go the phase converter route.. he SCRAPPED the original motor for the COPPER.. !!!!!
Anyway.. I guess I would appreciate any input on this lathe as to if I should run away from it or consider it. I already have an older, yet fairly large lathe and would like to have a smaller lathe that still has some clout. He's looking to get $1200.00 for it, which I think is rather steep, giving it's many shortcomings.
Here's a few pics of the lathe..
Thanks for your interest..
Brian
Diamond
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That's been cannibalized all over.
As a machine, that is worth it's value in scrap less what it would cost you to haul it to the yard.
The 600 might still support it, but the prices will scare the wotsit out of you.
Stainless
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Thanks Sami..
I was afraid of that.. the owner thinks he has a gold mine..
Cast Iron
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Forget it and move on to something complete. Your friend is a dreamer.
Stainless
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Thanks Nomad,
I will heed your advice.. It would be a nice lathe if complete, but a very expensive 'project' by the looks of it..
Diamond
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I have a slightly younger brother of that. Firstly scrapping the old three phase motor he done you a favour, there bloody heavy, mine was fixed 440V so went in the skip at work (not worth driving a 40 mile round trip for £5 of copper scrap if that!). Far easier to use a 220v ish three phase motor and vfd which i did. Theres plenty of space in the control end of the cupboard for any VFD upto about 80+ hp that i have yet to encounter, why they did not make it smaller and increase the tool storeage size is beyond me! The headstock will happily run over name plate speed too, just abit noisy, mines setup to top out at circa 1500rpm which is useful at times. The motor mounts on the back are fully adjustable so prtyy much any motor you can find from 1-3 hp will sit straight on easily. just gotta make - bore the pulley to suit if its there.
Theres F all to the lead screw end bracket, have a look at the lathe dot co dot uk sight, a cast lump with 4 bolt holes and 2 plain bores with sintered bearings IIRC for the lead screw and feed rod to run it. There is also a yahoo group that's pretty good
The saddles bushes wear badly, not really due to material but crap design a lot of the bearings that should get oiled don't! I added some oil nipples when i rebuilt mine. But to get them all you gotta kinda go under and point + shot in the right directions, typical bloody British machinery solid but always half arssed when it comes to lubrication!
Your lathe does not have a hardened bed hence check it for wear, it could well be badly worn! The hardened beds on the latter ones are pretty dang hard and resist wear a lot better, shame they didn't harden the cross slide - saddle ways as mine are worn and when i get time to learn how to scrape that's the first job! You do have the nice thread cutting gear box so thats a plus. if its imperial i think its a 4tpi lead screw you seek, there diffrent as not all had the thread cutting gear box. Equally there diffrent as some have a overload clutch on both feed and screw cutting some on just feed. At least its got the gears with it to work the box too. Often they go walkies!
Based on the amount of original paint it might well be in pretty good condition, might well be worth what's only a couple of days work to fix her up. But not at that price. Typically over here a working one in good order with 3&4 jaw chucks + accessories goes for that kinda price.
All that said there a pretty nice lathe once there sorted and working. They will happily work long and hard. There nice and heavy ( just shy of 3/4 a ton!) for there size too. A lot lot better than a ML7 if you need to cut hard enough to make money! Equaly there a mile better than any Chinese offering!
If you could get it for more like $400 then it might be worth while so long as you don't mind putting in the effort to sort it out. I would not go much higher than that. Especialy for a lathe with a screwed on chuck. latter ones like mine have a L00 fitting and it makes a nice difference if you want to reverse it and still cut metal!
Any other questions please ask away.
Stainless
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Hello Adama,
Well that puts an unexpected, yet positive spin on things. Thanks very much for all of the helpful info on the lathe. The ways appear to be in excellant condition and there is vertually zero backlash in the compound as well as the cross-slide. I certainly don't mind putting in the effort. I'll see what I can do about the price.
Thanks again..
Brian
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Knowing nothing about Harrison lathes specifically, I may be misinterpreting the photos, but it looks to me as though there is a lot of gearing missing between the spindle and the feed box. That would be a lot harder to replace than leadscrew and feed rod
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no they only have the one idler gear cluster on quadrant for the lead screw feed. Not 2 like a lot of other smaller lathes. Its just doped down currently. Gears are actually very common over here. Have a search on ebay. There is a lot of Harrison L5, L5a and L6 laths out there, they were made for something close to 40 odd years if i remember right. They just differ in centre height. Change wheels are common (unless you want 127 toother, i cut my own) across the lot and are easy enough to make.
Even the ones with no real lead screw gearbox like mine had a ABC little gear box (2:1, 1:1 & 1:2 if i remember correctly), hence how they get away with so little change gears.
Stainless
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Hello Adam,
Thanks for answering the gear question. I was just about to ask you what keeps this quadrant in the raised and engaged position. I couldn't seem to find what would keep it there when inspecting the lathe.
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Aaah memories. First proper lathe I ever drove. Never really figured out the speed - lever setting diagram tho', no problem in finding the speeds so long as I didn't look at the picture! As Adama says a decently hefty tool well up to hard work. Surprised to see a threaded spindle on a 1961 date machine as implied by the spec sheet, thought that option went in the late 1950s with the final round of upgrades so all machines got the L series nose.
Looks as if you have the standard drop gear set-up to give book threads on the QC box, banjo in your pictures is at a funny angle. See 3rd picture down at Page Title. As I recall it the one I used had no extra gears with it. Heck if you are missing gears I'd be tempted to just buy some off the shelf pulleys and toothed belts. Be quieter if now't else. Head stock etc. isn't as loud as some would have you believe until well worn but were never exactly a quiet lathe. Weakest point is probably cross slide wear. Its short, doesn't last that well, and tends to produce localised wear on the cross slide dovetail. If all is OK in that area rest of machine should be acceptable. Clutch can lead you a bit of a dance getting it to behave. Strip, scrub, re-assemble rather than mucking about getting the adjustments just so. Ours was sensitive to belt condition. When we finally bullied maintenance into fitting a new matched set it behaved much better. Set that came off looked OK but ..
Look very, very carefully to ensure that no small, vital parts have gone missing. Things like lead screw engagement dog assembly, feed drive shaft connector / overload clutch, feed/screw cutting interlock and other small apron parts will be essentially unobtainium and a right PIA to reverse engineer. Agree with Adama that the end bracket is no great bother to make, measuring up for alignment will be the worst part. I thought it was ball races rather than bushes in there but I may be mixing up with the later 140. Pretty sure the overload clutch on the lead screw didn't come in until the 140 with the extra lever on the gearbox tho', our L5A had a 'key as a dog clutch arrangement'.
Only worth it if no surprises and a whole bunch cheaper.
Clive
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You mention the lathe is from a friend and it's also clear that he has a way over-optimistic estimate of it's value. In my experience trying to do a deal in such a situation is difficult to do without someone's feelings being hurt.
You might show this thread to your friend, but I really think you'll just want to find a lathe in better shape, complete, with lots of tooling and spend the price that takes. This will cost weeks of time and still more money to get it tooled. It's right on the edge of being worth the most parted out -- and that might be a few hundred dollars plus a ton of time advertising it, answering questions, packing, shipping, and then dealing with buyers intent on returns and concessions. Still, that may be the path you should let your friend take.
Or, perhaps you have a rusty old Chevy, missing multiple parts and sitting on blocks in the back yard, that you can offer as an even trade? Your friend will have a very decent but unspectacular car when he's done restoring it and you'll have a very decent but unspectacular lathe when you're done. Note that the Chevy cost more when new and will be worth more when restored, but has a current value of maybe $300. That way you can both feel you have a bargain and perhaps enjoy the process of restoring something worth little to worth more??
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Stainless
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Hello Clive,
Thanks very much for the heads-up on what to look for in wear and missing parts. I'm not familiar at all with these lathes and am not sure what you mean by the banjo being at a 'funny' angle. It will swing up to mesh with the upper gears quite nicely, I'm just not sure what mechanism would hold the banjo in place once it's there.
Brian
Mark McGrath
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These are not bad little lathes although bit slow on spindle speed.Based on the fact you are in Canada I would give it a miss as spares will be hard to come by at a reasonable price and while I cannot comment on the asking price it looks expensive compared to here.
There are two of these lathes lying in a shed in my yard (not my machines) and the owner would take your arm off at $1600 for the pair. (plus my finders fee on top)
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Hello Mark,
Thanks for your input. Just for fun, I went on Ebay.UK and had a look at some Harrison parts.. It would be very pricey to have to bid on parts from your side of the pond and then have them shipped over here.
Brian
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Mark if there well or even semi tooled up and in ok condition you should easily be able to get £500 each. I am after a fixed steady for mine, problem is there rare to find, gotta make one but its not exactly a priority. So far the larger spindle bore has been enough to get me out of a hole. Some point that lucks going to run out though!
If you do get it and want dimensions of that bracket just shout. As to the banjo its held up by two bolts in semi circular slots hiding behind the gear going into the threading box, not the easiest to get to. Probably best to set the clusters mesh with the output gear then take off the output gear and swing it upto the head stock gear and set that mesh then reattach the output gear. It swing on a pretty tight boss so this works well for me.
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I saw that and thought that doesnt look so bad.. But yes I can see outside of the UK parts might be awkward to source and I also think its way overpriced at $1600.
The niceties are the norton gearbox and gap piece, both handy to have.
I actually owned the earlier l5 variant of that very lathe, and I currently have the same L5A model but with the crossover large bore 2.25' nose (1962) before they went to the L00 nose later on (although Im surprised to see a l5a with the old 1.5' nose) , I probably still have the leadscrew and end block from my old l5 as I kept them around for spares when I scrapped it. I can check pitch of it if you want but not certain it will be the same as my scrapped lathe was a l5. The banjo is held in place by friction, ie you tighten the two adjusting nuts up to lock it in situ.
I like them, but I'd have preferred to get something with l00 fitment (as mine was supposed to be when it parted the machinery supplier) as you are fairly restricted in suppliers for the chuck backplates to suit the nose thread, so its diy time.
Hot Rolled
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Oh and fyi, there are TWO shafts missing which connect the Apron to the gearbox. One is a leadscrew and one provides drive to the power cross slide/traversal mechanisms. Theres also some basic dog arrangement as they enter the box as overload protection.
I can get a shot of these if you want. I re-read, $1200, its still way overpriced. You'd get that for $300 in the uk in that state.
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For a point of price reference, I've got an L5A with 36' or 40' centers, L00 nose, 2 speed motor which gives a top speed of about 1500 rpm, 3 jaw, 4 jaw, steady, follower rest, and an Aloris type tool post. Bought it close to 20 yrs ago for $1500 in pretty nice condition at an auction where there were plenty of bidders, so the price was representative of the market and not some special deal from a friend or a hardship sale.
One thing I would say about these lathes is that a decent one will make you want to never use a similar sized Logan or South Bend again.

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